The Sacred Riverbanks of Spain
- Appellation,Profile,Winery
- May 21, 2012
From terraced vineyards cut into ridiculously steep vineyards planted in Roman times above the rivers Miño and Sil, the relatively unknown D.O. Ribeira Sacra is gaining new life from viñeros dedicated to producing uncompromised wines of distinction. The vineyards are so steep that machine harvesting is not possible, and workers are in constant danger of severe injury, or death. All in the pursuit of vinous pleasure and free expression.
Perilous harvesting
The red grapes consist of Mencía, Brancellao and Merenzao. For whites, it’s Albariño, Godello, Treixadura, Loureira, Torrontés, and Doña Blanca. Grapes are harvested by hand into small bins, and sometimes placed into bins attached to rail conveyors. In the ancient times, the wines were fermented in outdoor structures called lagares. The climate in Ribeira Sacra is generally continental, with long hot summers and cool winters, with plenty of rainfall. The D.O. itself was named after the many monasteries in the area that were founded in the Middle Ages. The monks were responsible for the earliest viticulture here, cutting the terraces into the hillsides and planting grapes for local consumption.
Terraces up close
Most of the vineyards here were left in disrepair after the double-whammy of phylloxera and then the Spanish Civil War. Agricultural life is hard, and the harsh landscape does not make it any easier. Only a handful of producers are making wine for commercial export in this isolated region. The potential for this region is immense — steep vineyards, planted on slate and granite, with unique microclimates. Several viñeros are breathing new life into the vineyards, producing authentic wines of singular distinction. In general, the Mencía-based reds here are lighter than their Bierzo cousins, nimble and graceful with wonderful minerality.
Guímaro Vineyard
With the renewed energy in the vineyards, comes a bit of controversy. The consello regulador would prefer the vineyards produce inexpensive wines for mass-consumption. Then there are producers like Pedro Rodríguez of Guímaro, who has recently returned to the area after a stint in law school. He has renewed his family’s terraces by hand, determined to extract the full potential of this region. Pedro says, “there are two types of winemakers: those who want to make money and those who want to make wine.”
Vinecraft distributes the following wines from Ribeira Sacra, imported by Jose Pastor Selections.
2009 COSTOYA ALODIO
Carlos Costoya tends five hectares (12 acres) of 30-40 year-old vines in the Ribeiras do Sil subzone of Ribeira Sacra. This subzone features soil with more slate and less granite. Alodio is 95% Mencía, with a little Merenzao and Brancellao; Carlos likes the additional complexity of blending several varieties, though always varieties that are indigenous to his area. The wine is aged entirely in stainless steel tanks. It sees two rackings, which minimizes the reduction that can affect the aromas of young Mencía. Bodegas Costoya was the first Ribeira Sacra producer to be imported into the United States, in 2003 by José Pastor.
Review of the 2008 vintage:
Vivid ruby color. Youthfully medicinal aromas of dark cherry, licorice and pungent herbs. Juicy, fresh and a bit tight, with moderately fleshy bitter cherry and anise flavors supported by a firm mineral spine. I like this wine’s uncompromising character. Finishes with dusty tannins and a trail of spicy minerals.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 89 points
GUÍMARO
Pedro Rodríguez is a young viñero, and is one of the rising stars of the region. He named his label Guímaro, after his grandfather’s nickname, which means “rebel” in the local dialect. His vineyard plots are all located within the Amandi subzone, which has a slightly warmer climate than the rest of the region. The vines average 40 years of age.
2009 GBG BLANCO VINO DE MESA
80% Godello, 15% Treixadura, and 5% Doña Blanca from 15 parcels in which white vines are scattered among the red. It spends a day on the skins and is fermented and aged in French barrique, including four months on the lees.
Review of the 2008 vintage:
Yellow-gold. Pungent, smoky nose displays scents of pit fruits, dried flowers, botanical herbs and lees. Then suave, tactile and broad in the mouth, with harmonious acidity framing the toasty pit fruit and floral flavors. An intriguing, exotic wine that finishes with intense florality and very good persistence.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 90 points
2010 MENCÍA JOVEN
100% Mencia, fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks.
Review of the 2009 vintage:
Bright purple. Very fresh, energetic aromas of redcurrant and pomegranate, with complicating notes of cracked pepper and Indian spices. Shows deeper cherry and licorice in the mouth, with a bitter chocolate nuance and strong minerally cut. This is carrying 14.5% alcohol but I wouldn’t have guessed that.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 89 points
