Big Table Farm
The directions to finding Clare Carver and Brian Marcy’s Big Table Farm are only found on their website — none of the major mapping services will lead you to this rural oasis of vitality and honesty. There is no cell phone reception, no wireless Internet, no technological lifeline on the dusty dirt road that leads you to Big Table Farm — one’s complete presence is required here, lest one step into a giant cow patty.
Inspired by the writings of Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma, In Defense of Food) and the practices of Joel Salatin (Polyface Farms), Clare and Brian dropped everything. In 2006 they found a 70-acre parcel of grass hidden amongst the forests outside of Gaston, Oregon, and got started. The farm is now a living entity, based on a rotational grazing system where the heritage Irish Dexter cows, horses, pigs, Red Ranger chickens, and a very-friendly goat all work together in amazing, sustainable, harmony. It requires an awe-inspiring amount of work and dedication.
“These are two manifestly extremely hard working and resourceful individuals, but who approach their wines in an experimental, innovative and whimsical fashion.”
— David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate
Unfortunately, none of those animals or vegetables they’re raising produce anything vinous to go with all the delicious food they’re growing, so Brian Marcy still does what he does best: makes delicious wines.
Brian studied fermentation science at UC Davis before starting his first harvest in 1996. His talent was recognized early, and he has worked for some of the most revered names in the wine industry: Blankiet, Neyers, Turley, and Marcassin are some of the wines he has contributed to.
Brian sources their grapes from an array of premium vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley, and even a tiny bit of Syrah from the famed White Hawk Vineyard in Santa Barbara County, California, famously used by Manfred Krankl at Sine Qua Non.
In addition to managing the farm aspect at Big Table, Clare is also an accomplished artist, and she designs all the wine labels, which are beginning to take on a life of their own. Each one is hand-printed on an manual letterpress, and depicts imagery from their farm.
The Big Table Farm wines are part and parcel of the overall farm-to-table movement, they embody the spirit of small production, craft methods that is gaining momentum throughout the world. The wines are lovingly crafted with only indigenous yeasts, and a laissez-faire philosophy.
“I just sort of guide the grapes, and they make the wine themselves.I don’t add yeast or enzymes or modern winemaking ingredients. It’s a really old process. People have been making wine for thousands of years, and additives have only been around the last fifty. With just a little bit of thought, there are lots of other ways to do it.”
Vinecraft is the exclusive distributor for Big Table Farms in Florida.
2011 Laughing Pig Rosé of Pinot Noir
Winery notes: “The vintage was as cool as 2010, so the chemistry numbers were very similar, but dry September created riper skins and seeds than 2010 resulting in what I expect will be fantastic wines. We experienced few vineyard issues due to the diligence and hard work of our growers. The significant difference from 10 to 11 was the size of the clusters. 2011 clusters were huge, and I knew that Saigné was needed in order to make our red wines as good as possible. This meant that the Laughing Pig Rose would smile back into our lives. I only had one lot that I did not bleed. The juice from the other lots was placed on top of an equal amount of fruit and allowed to soak and slowly start to ferment for several days. This was then pressed and transferred to neutral barrels where the wine still lives. As with our other wines the 2011 LPR has been fermented to dryness and malolatic complete. It will be bottled with out fining or filtration in the beginning of April, Clare says this might be the bet LPR yet. Aromatics of strawberry, toast and a little spice lead you into a rich mouth feel. The fruit lingers on the finish while your mouth waters slightly from a pleasing core of acidity. 190 cases produced.”
2011 Pinot Gris, Wirtz Vineyard
Winemaker’s notes: “It’s here again this year – Since last year’s release of this unusual wine, to our delight ‘orange wines’ have enjoyed some attention. The 10 was a successful ‘experiment’ and I’ll have to say 11 is every bit of ten and more… As in ten we took a traditionally white grape and left it on it’s skins to add color and texture to the wine, and then pressed and finished fermenting to dryness in neutral french oak barrels to soften and round out the wine. The results are a very full bodied luscious wine with lots of fruit and structure but the freshness of a white wine. It is an amazing companion to seafood. Bone dry, malolactic complete and bottled unfined and unfiltered. 110 cases made.”
2010 Pinot Noir, Cattrall Brothers Vineyard
(12.6% alcohol): Bright red. Fragrant, complex bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, incense and floral oils, with a strong spice element. Racy and precise, with sweet raspberry and cherry flavors complemented by Asian spices and a touch of blood orange. Closes with excellent energy and focus, leaving star anise and bitter cherry notes behind.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 92 points
2010 Pinot Noir, Wirtz Vineyard
Bright red. Sexy, heady aromas of raspberry, sassafras, star anise and potpourri, with a hint of blood orange. Sweet, penetrating red fruit flavors show excellent clarity and depth, with tangy acidity adding lift. Pure and focused pinot with strong finishing cut and lingering floral character. Packs a serious flavors punch but comes off as lithe.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 92 points
NV Work Horse Red
(12.9% alcohol): Light purple. Redcurrant, cherry and Asian spices on the assertively perfumed nose. Bright and racy, offering intense red fruit flavors accented by cinnamon and allspice. Shows very good energy on the finish, which leaves notes of gingerbread and candied cherry behind. This intriguing wine is 90% 2010 pinot noir from the Resonance vineyard and 10% 2009 syrah and it was fermented with some whole clusters, which are no doubt responsible for its wild, spicy character.
— Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 92 points
2009 Syrah, White Hawk Vineyard
Winery notes: “2009 was a beautiful long vintage, creating an opulent wine that still has wonderful balance, structure and acidity. We increased the whole cluster this year, which only amplified the nose. This wine will age beautifully but is drinking very well right now. All natural ferments, 30% New French oak and elevage of 22 months made this wine what it is. You are greeted with a color that has become a signature of this wine – INK! Rich blackberry fruit, cinnamon and tar great you. The palette has great depth and balance while still retaining purity through it’s long finish. 201 cases made.”